Take Me To The River: Islands On The Thames

On the market: Pharaoh's Island, £1.1m
John D. Wood, Tel: 0845 3734576
At 4:00 pm on Tuesday it got a bit crowded on the jetty opposite The Sphinx, a beautiful million-pound property on Pharaoh's Island in Shepperton.

There was Graham South from John D. Wood; a chap from the City eager to view the house; a couple of French guests staying with the owner; and myself.

The property's owner, Oliver Cowley, waved to us all from across the water, untied a small boat, sparked up the outboard engine and puttered quietly across to pick us all up.

As we all clambered on board - and there's nothing quite like climbing into a boat to put a smile on people's faces - Oliver joked that he should charge us a fiver a head, and we set off back across the 30 metre stretch of water, past the ducks and the swans, to alight on the property's landing stage.

Graham from John D. Wood was a bit worried he'd end up in the Thames as he stepped off the boat, but he, and his expensive suit, reached dry land safely - as indeed did the City gent, myself and the rest of the human cargo.

Downstream Views

On the market: Pharaoh's Island, £1.1m
John D. Wood, Tel: 0845 3734576
It's only a short journey, but crossing the water has a strangely magical effect - not least when you stand in Oliver's gorgeous garden, surrounded on three sides by water, screened by mature trees and with a lawn running right down to the river's edge.

Whoever built The Sphinx knew what they were about: located on a superb plot on the very tip of the island, the property makes the most of the rising sun with panoramic views to the east.

This side of the house is covered by a decked veranda, with steps down to the garden, and from here you can take in a dramatic 180 degree view framed by a tall weeping willow stretching its branches towards the water.

It was this unusual feature - most island homes have views across to the opposite bank rather than down river - that first captured Oliver's imagination:

"Lots of nice houses on the river look across to the other bank - but this one has a superb view downstream and water on three sides. The position is unique, and that's what attracted me."

Secluded, But Central

On the market: Pharaoh's Island, £1.1m
John D. Wood, Tel: 0845 3734576
Living on the island, says Oliver, is as idyllic as it looks: "There's a wonderful sense of seclusion and privacy on the island - no-one has ever been here uninvited and there's never been a crime.

"The moment you get in your boat you're in touch with nature - it's only 30 metres across but it's a delight.

"Even in winter, when the river is high, it's lovely. I've been here with a sprinkling of snow - the swans and ducks are still here and it's breath-taking.

"You can wrap up in November, have your bonfire and have your friends around for a party; and in the summer months you become very popular - it's good all year round.

"And although you have real privacy, you're not in the middle of nowhere, you're not cut off.

"I can be in Shepperton High Street in a couple of minutes. It's a real pleasure to live here."

Luxurious Makeover

On the market: Pharaoh's Island, £1.1m
John D. Wood, Tel: 0845 3734576
Oliver bought The Sphinx seven years ago and has spent a great deal of time and money restoring it to its current pristine condition:

"It was a tired old lady - it needed rewiring, replumbing, and replastering. I found really fine craftsmen to do the woodwork and we salvaged as much as we could and added some luxurious contemporary features.

"The heated pool with underwater lighting; the sauna; the paved terraces; the floodlit garden and grounds, the computerised watering system; the path from the slipway with movement-sensor lighting - although it's not a vast property the detailing is top notch."

The design has made the most of the house's relationship to the gardens, grounds and river beyond.

Double doors open out onto the veranda; sliding patio doors lead out to the pool; and from just about every room you can catch a glimpse of shining water through the trees.

The interior has been beautifully done: stripped floorboards; crisp white ceilings and walls; spaces that flow easily into one another. It's light and bright, and puts you in mind of a holiday home in the Hamptons.

Move To The Mainland

If I had £1.1 million to spare I'd be sorely tempted, so how can Oliver bear to part with so unique and captivating a property? "It will be difficult. I've loved living here.

"But the family has expanded and we need more space. This is a fabulous place for a single person, for a couple, or for a couple and one kid - but for a larger family, there aren't enough rooms.

"I did think about putting a barge on the mooring, and building a chalet in the garden, but I've had enough of building work and have decided to buy somewhere larger on the mainland.

"Whoever buys this place will be getting something really special - there aren't many homes on Thames Islands, and very few with boat-only access. And even fewer of this quality, on such a marvellous site, and with such wonderful views downriver."

Other Islands In The Thames

How right he is. According to the Environment Agency, the Thames, all 200 miles of it, has just 12,000 properties within 500 metres of its banks. And of those 12,000 there are only a couple of hundred on islands in the middle of the river.

Some are accessed by footbridge, some by chain ferry, some by road & and a few, like Pharaoh's Island and Garrick's Ait, can only be reached by boat.

The islands, the Thames, and languid messing about on the river, became hugely popular in the late Victorian and Edwardian era following the runaway success of Jerome K Jerome's Three Men in a Boat (To Say Nothing of the Dog).

After its publication in 1889, the number of registered Thames boats went up fifty per cent and the islands became popular for camping trips. Later, timber-framed chalets began to appear - but only as holiday homes.

Island Life - Rising Prices

It wasn't really until the 1960s that the vogue for living on the islands began - but it was a fairly eccentric, not to say hippyish thing to do - Eel Pie Island, which has a long and colourful rock 'n' roll history, was once, rather unfairly, described as "fifty drunks clinging to a mud flat."

"Even twenty years ago," says Gary Arnold of Waterview, a company specializing in waterside properties, "the timber-framed houses on the islands were difficult to sell and could be picked up for a few thousand pounds."

How times have changed - now they'll typically fetch between £350,000 and £500,000, and some go for a lot more than that. Inevitably, many of the original timber buildings have been knocked down to make way for something more sumptuous.

Close Communities

But the islands haven't been overdeveloped - there are, says Paula Gregory Dade of Waterview, strict controls over what can be built along the river and the communities on the islands remain tight-knit and sociable:

"All of the islands on the Thames have strong residents' associations, regular meetings and lots of social events - big Christmas gatherings, that kind of thing. There's also a nice mix of long-standing residents and more recent arrivals".

And while prices have spiralled, there are still bargains to be had - on Garrick's Ait you can currently buy a timber chalet for £170,000.

Different islands, however, offer different experiences - so here's a brief run through the main contenders, followed by a couple of issues to think about before you buy:

Quick Guide: 11 Islands In The Thames

1. Eel Pie Island

Where is it? Twickenham

Access? By footbridge

Properties? There are 50 houses and 120 people. Also 20 houseboats and 20 businesses (four are boatyards).

Prices? Original timber shacks go around £300,000, though a good one with 2/3 bedrooms could fetch £500,000. Also a development of townhouses which reach the £800,000 mark, and bespoke detached houses for £600,000-£700,000.

Worth knowing: Fascinating island with a long and colourful history. Named after the Eel Pies served here in the 16th century - Henry VIII often stopped by for one.

The Eel Pie Island Hotel (1830) later became a legendary music venue, playing host to venerable jazz men in the fifties (George Melley) before reinventing itself in the sixties as a counter-cultural haven - the Rolling Stones, The Who, Rod Stewart, and Genesis all played here.

Eel Pie's rock and roll days were immortalised in George Harrison's 'Cockamanie Business' - "Bust my back on the Levy, Broke my strings on the BBC, Found my chops on Eel Pie Island, Paid my dues at the Marquee". The hotel, alas, burned down in 1972.

Quite a few well-known people have lived here: Trevor Baylis dreamt up the first clockwork radio on Eel Pie, and the actor Nigel Planer, the befuddled hippy Neil in the Young Ones, used to live here.

2. Garrick's Ait

Where is it? Hampton

Access? By boat.

Properties? There are 26 properties. All are small timber-framed weekend homes with the exception of two substantial new houses. Plots on the island tend to be relatively small - you could buy and knock them down to rebuild, but the smallish plots will restrict you.

Prices? Waterview are currently marketing a one-bedroom timber cabin with mooring for £170,000 and a larger timber chalet for £219,000. One of the larger new houses was recently on the market for £450,000.

Worth knowing: One of the few islands with boat access only. Named after the Victorian actor, David Garrick, who owned a villa nearby and who used the island for parties. The thespian link was maintained when Lucy Briers, actress daughter of Richard Briers, bought a house here - though she sold it in 2005.

3. Trowlock Island

Where is it? Teddington.

Access? A hand-wound chain ferry.

Properties? There are 29 properties and 50 residents. Mainly on one level and quite a lot are the original timber-framed structures. Also the Royal Canoe Club's clubhouse and gym. Third of a mile long with a path down the middle and houses on either side.

Prices? Properties here don't come on the market very often. Although they're relatively modest, the Teddington address means they command quite high prices - not much under £400-500,000.

Worth knowing: Trowlock Island Limited manages the shared infrastructure. The Environment Agency is trying to introduce a new charge for the use of the chain ferry - much to the residents' annoyance. The dispute is ongoing - be aware, if you buy here, this is an expense to take into account. (Dispute update: see comment below)

4. Tagg's Island

Where is it? Hampton

Access? By road bridge

Properties? There are 60 house boats - though most are more house than boat.

Prices? Vehicle access makes it popular, and house boats here go for extraordinary prices. One recently sold by Waterview, a split level two-bed boat overlooking the Hampton Bank, fetched £390,000.

The owners own the freehold on the boats and a leasehold on the mooring and land. A colourful and well-established community lives here - they have their own website: Taggs Island.

Worth knowing: The island was named after Thomas Tagg, a boatbuilder who opened The Thames Hotel there in 1873. The actress Sarah Bernhardt and author J.M. Barrie were visitors.

Later, the theatrical impresario, Fred Karno, credited with discovering Laurel & Hardy and Charlie Chaplin, bought the island and built The Karsino & New Island Hotel.

Karno's houseboat, The Astoria, was moored here. In 1986 it was bought by Pink Floyd's David Gilmour and converted into a recording studio (pic opposite). Gilmour's 2006 album 'On An Island' was recorded on The Astoria in 2005.

5. Thames Ditton Island

Where is it? Thames Ditton

Access? By pedestrian bridge

Properties? There are 49 properties - some original timber-framed structures, others rebuilds.

Prices? Original timber houses go for around £350,000. Waterview currently have a brick-built bungalow with a 50 foot frontage for £450,000. Prices go up to around £600,000.

Worth knowing: One of the most popular residential islands because of its location - close to Kingston town centre, and to Thames Ditton, which has a mainline station with trains to Waterloo.

Half the properties are on the backwater and half on the mainstream Thames with beautiful views across to Hampton Court Palace - you'll pay more to be on the mainstream because it has deeper water for mooring and better views. And it's not overlooked from the opposite bank.

6. Pharaoh's Island

Where is it? Shepperton/Weybridge

Access? By boat

Properties? There are 23 houses

Prices? One exceptional property at the tip of the island on a large plot is currently being marketed by John D. Wood for £1.1 million, but the rest usually fetch between £300-£350,000.

Worth knowing: Pharaoh's Island is so called because it was reputedly gifted to Lord Nelson in 1798 in recognition of his victory at the Battle of the Nile.

Nelson used the island as a fishing retreat, though how the Admiral, who had only one arm, managed to land a fish is anyone's guess. In memory of this history, all of the properties have Egyptian names.

7. Hamhaugh Island

Where is it? Weybridge

Access? By bridge - cross the lock gates at Shepperton Lock and then walk across the weir and down a path to the island.

Properties? There are 40 houses on the island. Half have been rebuilt and the rest are original

Prices? Waterview are currently selling a plot with a three-bed bungalow with 68 ft of direct frontage. It's a potential rebuild priced at £350,000. Next door a refurbished two-bed timber house recently sold for £495,000.

Worth knowing: There's a nice communal green in the centre where the residents hold events - it was bought by them in 1920.

8. Friary Island

Where is it? Wraysbury

Access? By road bridge.

Properties? About 40 properties. A couple of original timber-framed properties remain, but the majority have been rebuilt.

Prices? Some big brick-built family homes go for around £800,000. Waterview currently have a four bed timber and brick bungalow for £500,000, with potential to rebuild. Paula Gregory Dade reckons when finished it could be worth £850,000.

Worth knowing: Vehicle access, relatively rare with Thames Islands, has an impact on prices and makes this one of the more expensive of the islands.

9. Sunbury Court Island

Where is it? Sunbury

Access? By bridge - pedestrian access.

Properties? Around 35 houses.

Prices? One on the tip of the island - large with a swimming pool - sold for £600,000. The majority are timber-framed with average prices of £350-450,000.

Worth knowing: Reckoned to be one of the nicest of the islands. Many of the houses have a mainstream mooring and a backstream mooring - offering river views from both sides of the garden.

10. Swan Island

Where is it? Twickenham.

Access? By bridge.

Properties? Boats, a few barges, and a boat yard.

Prices? You can pick up a houseboat here for under £100,000.

Worth knowing: A sought-after island with a well-established floating riverside community.

11. Platt's Eyot

Access? By bridge from the Hampton bank. Vehicle access.

Properties? Boat moorings, boatsheds and a boat yard, some industrial buildings for boatbuilding. Thomas Tagg of Tagg's Island fame had a boatyard here in the 1860s and Thorneycroft boat builders, who built navy torpedo boats and speed boats, owned the island until 1960. Now mainly empty industrial buildings. No residents as yet.

Prices? No homes here yet.

Worth knowing: One to watch - controversial plans have been submitted by Terrace Hill Developments to build 13 houses and 65 two and three-bed apartments.

Campaigners Against the Proposed Platt's Eyot Development (Capped) want to see a heritage, education, training and nature centre on the site - the island was designated a nature reserve in 1990 and the western end is designated Green Belt.

Buying on an Island: Top Tips

1. It may look romantic but don't forget to give serious thought to access - do you really want to carry the shopping across a footbridge - or a weir?

2. The cost of access. The Environment Agency is currently phasing in charges for access across their land - eg: for use of the chain ferry at Trowlock Island. Also for moorings that make the owners money. Bear this in mind when you buy.

3. It may look great in the summer - but can you hack it in the winter?

4. Parking is something to consider - most island homes don't come with parking and buying a space can cost £10-15,000.

5. If you buy and hope to rebuild, you probably won't get planning permission for a two-storey house - at best you can build something with rooms in the roof.

6. Floods - if you live on the river you have to expect that the water will come into your garden, maybe even your house, at some point.

Michael O'Flynn

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